Finding Solace Among the Moss and the Trees

Shirakoma Pond lies in the northern reaches of the Yatsugatake Mountains, which straddle the border between Yamanashi and Nagano Prefectures. This mystical pond sits at an altitude of 2,115 metres, nestled in a remote, wooded highland. Known for its crystal-clear waters, this is Japan’s largest pond  located above 2,000 meters. On still days, the surface becomes a flawless mirror, offering a perfect, upside-down reflection of the surrounding trees. With only two mountain lodges on its shores, Shirakoma Pond is very, very quiet. We were guided through the forest by Morishige Tatsuno, who runs one of the lodges, Shirakoma-Sō.

Northern Yatsugatake is characterized by its gently sloping hills and expansive, moss-covered forests. Conifer species such as Japanese hemlock (Kometsuga, Tsuga diversifolia) and Veitch’s fir (Shirabiso, Abies veitchii) twist their roots around craggy rocks. Among these trees stand towering giants several centuries old, but Shirakoma no Mori (Shirakoma Forest) is especially famous for its abundance of moss species. The forest floor, rugged and uneven, is blanketed in a lush, thick layer of moss – like a soft green carpet. Of the roughly 1,800 species of moss found throughout Japan, there are thought to be 485 species in this area alone. Interestingly, moss doesn’t have true roots, we were told. It has what are called rhizoids – structures that anchor it in place – but it absorbs nutrients solely through water and photosynthesis.

As we walked through the forest, Tatsuno-san took out a magnifying glass and began telling us about the moss. We learnt that moss comes in different shapes and sizes depending on the species, and that there are male and female mosses. He pointed out what are called “moss flowers” – thin stalks known as sporophytes that only female mosses produce. At the tip of each stalk, small droplets of rain or morning dew form into round, sparkling beads. While trees and flowering plants rely on wind or insects for fertilization, mosses fertilize by swimming through the water, he explained.

“The secret weapon of moss is dormancy,” he continued. “When faced with a crisis, like a lack of water, moss ceases all life functions like photosynthesis. Then, when conditions become more favourable, it comes back to life. It also has ways to protect itself from predators. To avoid being eaten, it makes itself taste bad.”

Listening to these fascinating facts made our walk through the forest even more enjoyable.

A Quiet Relay of Life in the Forest, Repeated Over Centuries

National Route 299, which passes near Shirakoma Pond, is also known as the “Fairy Tale Road”, a mountain drive course. This scenic route crosses the northern part of the Yatsugatake mountain range, and the Mukigusa Pass along the route sits at an elevation of 2,127 meters, making Route 299 Japan’s second-highest national highway. Being able to easily access such a high-altitude location by bus or in the comfort of your own car is quite something. There’s a large paid parking area for those wanting to access Shirakoma Pond  just off the highway. From the parking area it’s little more than a 15-minute walk to the lake. As soon as you step into the forest, a moss-covered primeval forest unfolds before you. The walking path is well-maintained and relatively flat.

The thick canopy lets in little sunlight, so the forest remains dim, even at midday, and the air stays cool throughout the summer. When the forest is wet, the vivid greens of the mosses and leaves seem to glow, making a walk through the woods feel refreshing – rain or shine. The area around Shirakoma Pond is rich in deciduous shrubs and trees, including enkianthus and Erman’s birch. In early summer, the forest glows with fresh green foliage, while in autumn, the lake is bordered in brilliant shades of red and yellow. A walking path runs around the shoreline and a full circuit takes about 40 minutes to complete. There are several named forests in the area, including Shirakoma no Mori and Takami no Mori, making it a perfect place to wander and explore at your own pace.

Throughout the forest, there are clusters of saplings in certain areas. These are spots where a large tree has fallen, letting sunlight reach the forest floor and triggering a burst of new growth as seedlings compete for space and light. Only a handful of these saplings will survive to maturity, which gives a sense of just how fierce the forest’s struggle for life really is.

“A fallen parent tree becomes a nursery, helping its own offspring take root. The forest passes life forward through these cycles that unfold over centuries,” explains our guide.

With each new story about the forest, the landscape seems to shift and come alive in fresh ways and, before you know it, hours have passed. There’s something vast and deeply moving about the quiet persistence of this ecosystem – perhaps that’s part of why it brings such peace to the human heart.